MANY PEOPLE FEEL that Downeast doesn't really begin until you cross the Hancock/Sullivan bridge. At this point, there definitely is a change in ambiance. There is a subtle shift to less commercialization. Tourism no longer rules the roost.

This is the beginning of the Schoodic National Scenic Byway

Aross the bridge into Sullivan there is a restaurant, then a left that will take you to Lunaforms, Art & Old Things (featuring an interesting and eclectic collection of traditional antiques and "junktiques" along with fine art and a wonderful sculpture garden). A mile or so further down this road is the Barter Family Art Gallery. (Philip and Priscilla Barter have integrated their art with their lives. Their home, their gallery, their workshop are all works of art--paintings, wood relief, sculptures, crafts, you name it.)

Back on Route One, The Sullivan Gallery features the work of local artists.

Back on One, you'll pass Edgewater Cabins and Dunbar’s Grocery Store (where there is a terrific view of the mountains of Mt. Desert Island), the turnoff to Rte 200, before you get to Rte 185, the road to Sorrento and Blink Bonnie Golf Course (where I had my hole in one) On the way there you'll go by
Bass Cove Farm (a bed and breakfast which offers special discounts for stays of over four days).

Back on Route One, you'll see Chester Pike’s Gallery (a nice little restaurant).



At TUCKER MOUNTAIN LOG HOMES, skilled logsmiths build custom-designed, handcrafted dwellings. Unique digs like these are available nowhere else in Maine



Next come Acadia Post & Beam, Sullivan Plastic Products, and Bay View Farm B&B.

Further on, you’ll find the Shanahan's Enterprises on Flander’s Bay. Barbara Shanahan runs a nice antique shop and rents cabins and campsites. Everything is on the ocean and accessible to kayakers and canoeists as well as motorists. Call 207/422-6408.

Nearby is Tracy’s lobster and clams

Look for the office of BUD LEE, a first-rate electrical contractor.



I walked into Angel Antics Glass Crafters hoping to sell an ad and walked out with this terrific kaleidoscope, a unique, hand-crafted object of art combining kiln-formed glass, antique pieces of jewelry, and bits of rare glass. I am quite sure my wife will treasure it forever.

There are those who say that O'Connor's Store has coastal Maine's best hotdogs. Try Downeast bubble gum--pieces of dried fish--at Young's Store. Here gasoline prices generally are lower than anyplace further east.


The WINTER HARBOR AGENCY has been selling real estate and insurance on the Schoodic Peninsula since 1898. This venrable company has been in the Tracy family for four generations, a Maine record.




Keep and eye out for Acadia View B&B and You Name It (custom banners),


Turnoff to Rte 186, the road to Winter Harbor.

If you're into nature, woods, mountains, and lakes, turn left onto Route 183. Four-point- three miles past abandoned railroad tracks, turn left at a sign to Donnell Pond and Maine public reserve lands. Go four-tenths of a mile, then bear left and keep straight another 1.9 miles to a parking area. Nearby are trails up Schoodic and Black mountains and a half-mile walk to a spacious beach and picnic area on Donnell Pond. The Schoodic Mountain trail takes less than two hours - it's about 1.5 miles - but is steep. Your reward is the best view of Mount Desert Island around.

The Gouldsboro Historical Society operates a museum in a historic building on Rte 1. It is open 2 to 4 July and August.

Rte 186 leaves Rte 1 and makes a big loop around the Schoodic Peninsula. Rte 195 bisects the loop.




Kayakers staying at the SUNSET HOUSE B&B find access to both fresh and salt water.










At the Maine Kiln Works, Dan and Elizabeth Weaver augment their more typical pottery selections with Maine's largest assortment of stoneware sinks. Fired at 2,360 degrees, the handformed sinks emerge from the kiln part glass and part stone. They are available in several sizes and styles. Each is beautifully distinctive.

On a ridge running parallel with the shore in South Gouldsboro, there are frequent unobstructed views of the islands in the Bay.

About three miles down 186, The Bluff House Inn & Restaurant offers an outstanding 180 degree view from Mount Desert Island to Schoodic Mountain as well as tastefully decorated rooms at rates to suit every budget. Guests get breakfast and dinner (as can others with reservations. Call 207/963-7805).

Finally in Winter Harbor, check out Lee Art Glass Studio. The guys here make unique things with terra cotta and bisque molds. We have seen pieces for sale at the studio for a fifth of the price people are paying in Northeast Harbor (not that those folks can’t afford to pay a premium.)

Opened in 2003, the state-of-the-art Grindstone Neck Gourmet Smoked Seafood facility is a stop well worth making. Stop by for free samples and pick up some to take home.

If you want to see rough seas breaking along a rugged shoreline, check out Grindstone Neck. This peninsula is home to a fashionable summer colony. Sometimes off the western shore of Ned Island, you can see Roaring Bull--the ocean breaking over a submerged ledge midst an otherwise calm stretch of water

For fine dining in an elegant atmosphere, check out Fisherman’s Inn Restaurant. They promise "Real Food Done Well"!

How many of us can recall the days when "soda jerk" was a highly respected profession. Well, the folks at J.M. Gerrish can. Their’s been a popular cream parlor in the heart of downtown Winter Harbor for the past 75 years.

For embroidery and imprinting, the Creative Design Studio on Duck Pond Road is the place to go. Using both screenprinting and computer-assisted graphics, Robin Foskett is right on the cutting edge. Whether you want one item or a hundred, this young lady will tend to your every need.


MAIN STAY COTTAGES on Sargent Street are next to the marina, very convenient for sailors. These modern cottages have fireplaces, cooking and refrigeration facilities, and are just minutes from the Schoodic portion of Acadia National Park. This is the only lodging in Winter Harbor that overlooks the ocean. Call (207)963-2601.




Whatever you do, don’t miss Winter Harbor’s famous lobster festival held the second Saturday of August. It attracts the world’s speediest lobster boats for its famous races. Other attractions include delicious food, children’s activities, a parade, live music, and crafts.

The Pines provides rustic and inexpensive accommodations near the entrance to Acadia National Park.

The Schoodic section of Acadia National Park is comprised of 2,080 acres and features a 7.2-mile shore drive. At the entrance to the park, there is Frazier's Point, a picnic-rest area where you can stop for a barbecue picnic, sit and enjoy the panoramic view, or try saltwater fishing off the end of a pier stretching into the cove.

From the western side of the park bordering the sound, there is a view of Mount Desert Island's mountains. A short distance from the shore, there is a turn-out and a trail leading to the Raven's Nest where the sea has carved a ragged "W' into the cliffs rising above them.

The waters of the sound are linked to two quiet coves by a short ride through the woods to a promontory where at twilight deer may be seen feeding at the roadside. At the coves, you may find sea-ducks or blue heron. From here you can hike along a winding road to the top of Schoodic Mountain, a headland 400 feet above the ocean. From the summit, you can see magnificent views into the Bay of Fundy.

On the east side of Big Moose Island, there is a cove at which turbulent seas have erected ever higher stacks of beach rock. When the tide is right, a sand bar stretches to Little Moose Island, on which there are trails leading to high elevations and fine views.

Schoodic Point juts further out into open sea than any other point on the U.S. eastern coast. Here the sea crashes in, sending geysers of spray 40 feet into the air. The gulls are almost tame.

If you want to stretch your legs, consider the 1.3-mile-long Anvil Trail, accessible from the Blueberry Hill parking area. If you don't like retracing your steps, head down the westernmost trail, which eventually comes out on a gravel road. You can follow the road until you see a trail straight ahead near a ranger's house. That trail takes you through nice, level, grassy and wooded areas back to your car.

Leaving the park, you can see several clear illustrations of Maine's famed rocky coast, where beaches have been hammered from the cliffs by the pounding seas.

Once out of the park, you come upon Wonsqueak Harbor, where the rocks have turned red and the waters are so narrow the lobster boats are moored single file. This harbor got its name from the legend of an Indian brave who punished his cheating squaw by drowning her. As she went down the the last time, she managed to emit one squeak.

Stinson Seafood Company is Maine's largest and the nation's most highly automated sardine cannery.

When Maine's famous Perry's Nut House closed its doors, its assets were auctioned off, and its fabulous nut collection went to DIMARCO REALTY in Prospect Harbor. It's the world's biggest nut collection, including examples of every known botanical nut, and on public display. If you’re looking for real estate Downeast, Al DiMarco is the guy to see. He has a huge selection, and he’ll treat you right.






You might want to investigate Darthia Farm where Bill and Cindy Thayer market organic produce, lamb skins, wool, and raw mohair. Cindy is a weaver of shawls from hand-dyed silk. Check out the horse-drawn hay and sleigh rides. Call 207-963-7771.

Richard Fisher suspects that his love of bells goes back to the Chinese windbells that hung outside the house he grew up in. He has taken that love and turned it into a thriving enterprise. At U.S. Bells in Prospect Harbor, you can see many of his creations, cast in bronze and capable of producing pure and enduring tones. Many of his bells are unusual, with the clapper linkages hanging beside the bell rather than concealed inside. Often he groups them in intriguing clusters. Fisher's bells are lovely sculptures as well as functional noise-makers. Prices begin at around $50. Call 207-963-7184.

At the Oceanside Meadows Inn Bed & Breakfast, Sonja and Ben will let you use the unusual (for these parts) sand beach on their property. It's a good place to find sand dollars and sea cucumbers. Sometimes you can see seals.


Back on Route One, you'll come upon a quilt shop, the Jct. 195, and beyond that the return of Rte 186 from its loop around the Schoodic Peninsula, and then Downeast Coal Stoves.


A bit further on, watch for the Bartlett Maine Estate Winery sign. (The Bartletts produce unusual fruit wines from apples, raspberries, pears, and Maine blueberries. Although fruit wines generally are sweet, these are semi-sweet and dry. You can take one of their hourly guided tours Tuesday thru Saturday June 1 thru late Oct. Samples are available in the tasting room).


The road to Steuben goes right. There is a campground and a bakery down here.

Peter Weil shows his metal sculptures at his gallery on Old Rte 1, Steuben. Weil, a nationally known artist, is celebrated for the whimsical quality he lends his animal creations. Call 207-546-2269. This year his wife, Jane, has started a commercial garden with many reasonably priced perennials on hand. The gallery and gardens combine in a really lovely setting.

Downtown you can tour the historic Moore Parish Hall.

Down the Rogers Point Road, Arthur Smith holds court at A & M Chain Saw Sculptures. With his chainsaw, Smith has created a unique menagerie of strange and loveable beasts. The place is a bit out of the way, but worth the detour.

Ever wonder what Lath Art is? Well, wonder no more; you can see some for yourself at Charles Leach’s place, 42 Oak Ridge Road, Steuben. A clue: Lath Art is three dimensional and highly original.

Steuben is home of the 40-acre Eagle Hill Wildlife Research Station, which thruout the summer runs weeklong professional courses and daylong field trips highlighting the natural history of the Maine coast.

The Petit Manan National Wildlife Refuge, 3,335 acres, is known for the many species of birds it attracts--seabirds, shorebirds, songbirds, waterfowl, including bald eagles, peregrine falcons, and roseate terns. More than 150 bird species have been spotted here. Petit Manan is a rugged, windblown place. It has many habitats, including spruce and mixed hardwood forests, jack pine stands, cedar swamps, raised heath wetlands, blueberry barrens, and fresh- and saltwater marshes. There are two interpretive footpaths to the shore.

You can park along Pigeon Hill Road and take a canoe or kayak across a short channel to the Wildlife Refuge section of Bois Bubert Island.

On your way, you get a nice view of Petit Manan Lighthouse and you pass the only outdoor retreat for women, Raven's Retreat.

Watch for the sign directing you to Far Point Handspun Wool.


Entering Washington County (bills itself as Sunrise County, first county in U.S. to see the rising sun), much is made in these parts of being way far east, this is combinerd with being on the 45th parallel, halfway between the Equator and the North Pole),

Milbridge is a historic seafaring and shipbuilding community. Just inside the village, a right turn puts you on Wyman Road which takes you down a thin peninsula where you can visit a lobster pound and McClellan Park, ten acres of beautiful rocky shore with picnic areas, campsites, tidal pools, and trails.

The new Milbridge Historical Museum on Main St. harkens back to the town's shipbuilding days. It's open 1 to 4 p.m. Tuesday, Saturday and Sunday during July and August. Admission is free, tho donations are appreciated.

The cranberry pie at the Milbridge House has received raves in New Yorker magazine.

The Milbridge Theatre, which shows first-run films, sells all tickets for $3.50.

Michael Dwyer of Milbridge, who does both residential and commercial architecture, is also a talented and highly imaginative artist.

Kelley's Flower Shop can take care of your floral needs. Call 207-546-2779. The Cinnamon Stick is a good place to pick up dried flowers.

For more than a quarter of a century, the Red Barn Motel and Restaurant, has been a must-stop for many people traveling in Eastern Maine. The food is good, the accommodations comfortable and reasonably priced.

Also in Milbridge, you'll come upon Joshy's Place (hamburgs and whatnot), Cinnamon Stick gift shop, a bank, 44 North Restaurant, Tibbett’s Seafood, a pharmacy, a café across street, Evergreen Realty,

The mouth of the salmon-rich Narraguagus River is at Milbridge. Salmon spawn here in early summer, and you can fish without a license if you stay beyond the brackish water on the inlet side of the bridge.

If it has to do with boats, you can deal with it at TriTown Marine in Harrington. The guys at this full-service facility know their watercraft, that's for sure.

As you approach Cherryfield, you'll see The Recycle Shop on your right. This is a ministry of the Maine Sea Coast Mission in Bar Harbor and offers great deals in used clothing and books. The base price is ten cents an item, with donations above that gratefully accepted.

turnoff to Rte 182, Pleasant Bay B&B (which doubles as a llama farm).


The Cherryfield Historic District, an area of about l75 acres lying on both sides of the Narraguagus River, contains excellent examples of most popular 19th century architectural styles, including Second Empire, Federal, Greek Revival, Italiana,Queen Anne, and Colonial Revival. Cherryfield's Second Empire-style houses are unsurpassed. The local historical society publishes a map, available at most information centers, to assist tourists.

Sprucing up the downtown, the Narraguagus Trading Company is developing into a quality group shop with a nice mix of antiques, collectibles, and crafts.

Englishman B&B.

The Ricker House, circa 1802, picked by Inn Times magazine as one America's top 50 inns, is this historic town's fifth oldest house. Both of these accommodations offer reasonable rates.

The Cherryfield Town Band, which traces its roots back to 1869, offers Tuesday evening concerts at the new Gazebo Bandstand in the town park. This 35-piece band was featured in the Boston Sunday Globe. While you're in town, check out the historic Blacksmith Shop.

Route 193 out of Cherryfield leads to Route 9 thru Deblois. This road will take you by the Wyman Company's vast blueberry barrens. Those flecks of blue you find in certain pancake mixes are wild blueberries, and ninety percent of the nation's wild blueberries come from Washington County. In town, there are two blueberry processing plants which provide tours.

Jerry Blackburn, who sells lots of interesting old stuff at his shop, Mill River Antiques and Salvage Co., on Rte 1 in Cherryfield is struggling to found the Downeast Museum of Natural History and Art Center. His aim is to preserve 19th century Downeast history in a museum setting. He says it all started when he decided to hang onto an old doctor's bag filled with early patent medicines. This should be preserved in a museum, he reflected, and since no museum existed, he became determined to start his own.

In Harrington, you might want to take one of the Worcester Wreath Company's tours. They take about 30 minutes and will acquaint you with all aspects of the wreath business. These people do a big mail-order business; they sell some $100,000 worth of wreaths annually and are said to be the world's largest marketeers of decorated wreaths. Call 207-483-6502 for scheduling.

North from Harrington is road into the blueberry barrens and two put-ins for canoe/kayak trips on the Pleasant River--three-hour and one-day trips down the Pleasant through the Great Heath, the largest peat bog in New England. Continuing on the Ridge Road, you reach the Columbia Town Hall, with its outstanding views of the surrounding river valley and barrens.


Businesses in the Harrington area include Dallton builder, Downeast Family Karote, Mary Ella’s Dollar Plus store, La Tienda mexican restaurant, Sadie Janes’ jeans and jumpers, antique shop situated in old Esso station, Harrington House, Scovia’s Millside Dining, Paintings by Sandra Priest.

At the Junction 1A, you can go left to Milbridge or right to Machias. Go left and you'll come immediately upon a big Irving station.

On Route One, you'll come upon a road to right which leads to the Blue Heron Art Gallery (where Hazel Carter hangs much of her work; self-taught, Carter has spent a lifetime honing her craft. She paints many familar Maine scenes, but has a knack for bringing them alive. Call 207-483-4715)


the Seafood Shack, a bank and food market, the Bargain Hut Gift Shop.

Back on Route One, you’ll come upon Dallas's Lobsta Take-out, a nifty little eatery featuring the only outdoor lobster cooker between Ellsworth and the Canadian border.

Then a couple of miles down the Marshville Road are the Ocean Spray Cottages, unsurpassed for quiet, peaceful, relaxing surroundings. They’re open year round. Call 207/483-2780.


From Route One, a road to the right leads to Columbia Falls where you'll find the Ruggles House and Columbia Falls Pottery, back on One is Dreamcatcher B&B,

Just off Rte 1 in Columbia Falls, the Ruggles House, circa 1820, is remarkable for its delicate interior and exterior handcarvings. These were completed over a three-year period by an English carver armed only with a penknife. The most noted architects are said to have found the famed flying staircase astounding. The place is said to be haunted. According to one long-time employee, often at night the voices of children can be heard. Filled with period furniture, the Adams-style home is open to the public June 1 to Oct. 15; admission is free, though donations are requested. Call 207-483-4637.

Nearby is Columbia Falls Pottery, which provides very high-quality and colorful majolica pieces. The stock here is not inexpensive, but they do have a seconds table which usually contains at least a few items.

South of Columbia Falls, just a tad off the beaten path, in Addison, you'll find Comfrey Corner Farm. Here Chris Guy offers a nice assortment of herbs, pot pourri, crafts, and spices. The famous Addison Marches are among the best bird-watchidng areas in Maine. There is a llama keep at Pleasant Bay, part o a nice bed and breakfast .


Sitting atop a hill on the Centerville Road near the old Pineo Mill is a big, yellow house with a huge barn and a shed attached. Be wary if you go there. In 1801, a grisly murder occured here, and the spirit of the victim has been seen by dozens of people. The victim was an itinerate peddler and the farmer who murdered him dismembered his body and stuffed it into an old whiskey barrel which he buried in the shed. Nice try, but the dead guy wouldn't stay put. Oldtimers say is you stop in front of the house and dare the spirit to appear, he will pass by the window.

There is a bridge across Moosebec Reach to Beals Island and here you can visit the Regional Fish Hatchery, which is housed in a former clam-shucking house on the wharf. An education center/museum is housed in the upper level of the former power house. Visitors can view videos, historical photographs, aquariums, and other displays related to salmon and the rivers Downeast. Interpretive tours are provided. Admission is $1.

Immediately past Columbia Falls village, you can turn north on Centerville Road, which leads to Milton Mountain. A short hike to the top provides wonderful views of the barrens, bog, and coastal lands to the ocean. Near the end of the Centerville Road, a logging road leads to beautiful Holmes Falls on the Machias River for canoeing/kayaking and swimming.


The turnoff to Jonesport, Rte 187.

Want to take a really enjoyable cruise? Island Cruises provides a great one out of Jonesport. Capt. Laura Fish takes up to six passengers for three-hour trips on the 23-foot Aaron Thomas. They go poking about the islands of Moosabec Reach, including Great Wass, which is especially nice because most of its wild beauty is protected by Nature Conservancy. Laura is amiable and will arrange customized cruises to places of particular interest. Call 207-497-3064 for reservations.

On Cross Island, there areseven old graves, and many visitors have been frightened off by the sound of clanking chains. Legend has it there is a treasure chest hidden in a cave accessible only at low tide.

At Jonesport Nautical Antiques, Bernhard Sund offers a terrific assortment of authentic and beautiful nautical memorabilia.

At Tall Barney's Restaurant in Jonesport, there is a special Liar's Table reserved for some of Maine's best spinners of tall tales.

Machias Seal Island, 10 miles from the mainland, is the best place in the world to get an up-close look at puffins. Probably the best way to get there is on Capt. Barna B. Norton's vessel, which departs from Jonesport at 7 a.m. each morning. The Norton family has been providing cruises since 1940. The cost for the guided tour is $50 a head. Call 207-497-5933.

At Crossroad Farm in Jonesport, Arnold and Bonnie Pearlman sell a wide variety of organic produce at eminently fair prices. Back in the sixties, the Pearlmans were among those determined to return to the land. They did so; unlike many of their contemporaries, however, they stuck it out. They live simply and waste nothing. Whatever electricity they use, they produce themselves with wind turbines and photovoltaics.

On Loon Point Road, check out Nelson Decoys. Nelsob's birds have won 37 first place ribbons in various competitions as well as a Best of Show award in 1995.

A bridge links Jonesport with Beals and Great Wass islands. Here the Nature Conservancy makes three miles of trails available to hikers and picnickers in its 1,540-acre preserve. Near here, you can visit the historic home of Tall Barney Beal. At the bridge to Beals Island, visit the Atlantic Hatchery to view the seeding and development of clams.

By getting a bit off the beaten track, you can get very nice accommodations for very little money. A good case in point is Rosemary's Motel in Beals. For forty-five bucks a night you get two double beds, color cable TV, a kitchenette with microwave and refrigerator, and access to laundry facilities. From RoseMarie’s, it’s just a short walk to modern boat-launching facilities, an ocean beach, and the Great Wass Island Nature Preserve. RoseMarie’s is family-owned and maintained with great pride.


Back on Route One is Wild Blueberryland Gift Shop, Saco Falls Realty, Barren View Golf Course.

on One Chamber Lodge Fine Dinign, Blueberry Patch Motel, the Dreamcatcher Bed and Breakfast, Jonesboro's Blueberry Patch Motel and the White House Restaurant (which is in a house that isn't white, but for a really first-class piece of pie, go here).


Just south of Jonesboro is Look's Point where the legendary Phantom of the Narrows warns citizens of impending wars. It is the apparition of Nell Kilton, who as a young woman fell in love with a Native American man. Her father would have none of this. He killed the man and banished daughter Nell, who went to live with the Passamaquoddy people of that area. She never married, but instead became a seer, predicting the French and Indian and Revolutionary wars. Nell was a vocal proponent of American independance, and was ultimately executed by the British. Her spirit is said to have returned to foretell the War of 1812, the Mexican War, the Civil War, and World Wars I and II.

Roque Bluffs State Park has no camping, but provides swimming in both salt and fresh water. The shore affords pleasing views of several wooded islands, one of which is Roque Island. At several spots there are well-equipped picnic sites, one of which has a playground. There are no hiking trails. An interesting near-by golf course is a well-kept secret. Roque Bluffs has one of the area's few sand beaches, which is said to be haunted. The ghost here leaves mysterious footprints.


In Machias, take a right on 92 to head towards Machiasport. In his guide to Maine, Charles Calhoun placed Micmac Farm in Machiasport among the state's dozen best restaurants. He called MicMac "the Platonic ideal of a Maine country inn; an 18th-century house in the woods, a warm fire, glistening antiques, amiable hosts, a short but perfect menu". Call 207-255-3008 for reservations.

In the early days, Machias, which means "Little Bad River," was a popular hideout for pirates. The notorious Bellamy tried to establish a retirement village for ageing pirates here. Things fell apart after Bellamy was captured and hanged in Massachusetts, but near where the bridge crosses the Machias River, the breastworks and moats may still be seen.


Between Machias and Machiasport on Rte 92, a marker sets beside a small stream. Known as Foster's Rubicon marker, it depicts the spot where the rebellious Col. Benjamin Foster challenged an indecisive band of men to follow him across the stream if they dared engage the British in battle. The patriots followed the dashing Colonel's lead and ultimately ended up capturing the British man-o-war Margaretta in the aforementioned first naval engagement of the Revolution. (Foster was an inspiring instigator, but a bungling seaman. The sloop he commanded on this foray quickly ran aground and missed out on the action. Jeremiah O'Brien led the men who took the Margaretta.

The Starboard Peninsula holds Fort O'Brien (1775) (often called Fort Machias), a fine picnic spot. Admission is free. In town is the Machiasport Historical Society's Gates House (an 1807 Federal-style building with period furnishings and marine artifacts. Open weekdays 12:30 to 4:30 p.m. June 1 to mid-sept. Admission: free).

At Bucks Harbor is Jasper Beach, with unusual water-worn rocks and pebbles. According to Kim Bennett of Bennett's Gems and Minerals in Belfast, these actually aren't jasper, but rhyolite, a volcanic rock that closely resembles jasper. Legend has it hat Jasper Beach has seen more than its fair share of suicides and that the wailing cry of a young lady suicide victim can often be heard above the wind. Another legend has it that the ghost of a murdered man makes it impossible to safely spend the night on Jasper Beach.

Off the Starboard Peninsula are the Libby Islands where a wicked man named Petegrew is said to have tolled vessels onto the rocks with a signal light. Allegedly he would kill the crew and salvage the cargo. He and his sons built a road to Little Libby Island, and locals suppose he buried treasure hereabouts.


Back on Route One, It's hard to imagine a more attractive setting for getting an education that the Coast of Maine. Well, you can get a good one at the University of Maine at Machias.

"Our main business is framing," says Holly Garner-Jackson of Woodwind Gallery. "So if people want to come in and just look around, they're certainly welcome." Visitors accepting Holly's invitation can see the work of more than 50 artists and artisans. There's space here for beginning and experimental art as well as work by polished and well-known professionals. The day we visited, prices ranged from $30 to $2,200, and, besides paintings, there were carvings, woodcuts, some stained glass, and ships models. Holly also sells art supplies, and lay-aways can be arranged. "Our paintings aren't spaced 15 feet apart, and you don't have to worry about tracking a little dirt on the rug," Holly says.

In 1775, the first Naval battle of the American Revolution was fought at Machias. It occurred when a small band of patriots captured the Margaretta, a British man-o-war. Surviving from that time on Main Street downtown is the Burnham Tavern. Here the patriots are said to have plotted the overthrow of King George. Following the battle, the tavern was used as a hospital. It is the oldest building in eastern Maine and the only one boasting ties to the Revolution. Inside are period furnishings and historical artifacts. Open late June-Labor Day, Monday-Friday. Admission: $2.

Fat Cat Deli on Main Street in is the place to go for a quick and satisfying meal. The house speicalty in a wide variety of over-stuffed, deli-style sandwiches—all priced verey fairly. On Friday nights there is live music..

The folks at Sunrise Realty have been around the greater Machias area for a dog’s age and know the market like nobody else. Think of them next time you’re looking to buy or sell property anywhere in Washington County.

Natural Food stores north of Ellsworth are hard to find. Not so in Machias. Stop by Whole Life Natural Market right off Route 1 where they sell organic produce, natural foods of all kinds , organic wines, Bulk herbs and spices , natural pet products and much more. They’ll even prepare you a box lunch to take on a picnic. Call ahead first. Next door is Whole Body Wellness Studio. Relieve your tired body with soothing and therapeutic massage therapy. They offer personal sports training and other specific training as well as Yoga instruction.

Machias Bay Realty located just off Route I is now occupying their newly remolded offices (which they themselves have redone ) in what was once the Machias 5 & 10 Store.. Stop by and see Sharon .. These folks know DownEast property and where to get the best deals in the area. Once considered too far away by folks the Machias Bay area is now bustling with new real estat activity, the likes of which has never been known in the area. Waterfront is still affordable here , but Don’t wait too long or risk missing out on great deals .

Sandy Bryand describes herself as "a crazy lady who spends her money giving away clothes." Well, she isn't crazy, really, but she is a good-humored woman who all lbut gives away clothes at her Bag 'O Rags Thrift Shop (207-255-4649) on Main St. The deals here are delightful, as is Sandy's company.

Sandy's Sales is a big wholesale and retail center in East Machias. All kinds of bargains here. On Lower Main Street, Esther's Resale Shop stocks a variety of used clothes and accessories. At Smitty's Trading Post, you can get good deals on both new and used guns.

Also in Machias, you'll find Sue’s Thrift Store and More, VIP Realty, a motel, a gift shop, a pharmacy, a McDonald’s Café, a florist, Artists Café, Machias Bay Realty, Maine Magazine, Thirsty Moose Café, Hing Garden, Chinese restaurant, Blue Bird Ranch Restaurant, a Subway, the Machias Motor Inn, Helen’s Restaurant, Machias Valley Farmer’s Market, a public boat launch, Maine Art and Artisans, a Quiznos, Dunkin Donuts, and Baskin Robbins, antiques and fine art, an inn, the Margaretta Motel, Rae’s Restaurant, and a massage therapist,

In the center of Machias, check out Bad Little Falls. You're likely to see harbor seals. The Machias River holds some of the East's best salmon waters.

Leaving Machias, you'll pass a massage therapist, the road to the Gates House, a dairy bar, the Riverside Inn & Restaurant, and the turnoff onto Rte 191 & the Bold Coast Trails.

East of Machias is a pottery studio called Clay of Fundy. Get it? Not Bay of Fundy, but Clay of Fundy. An ornament from here was chosen to adorn President Clinton's White House Christmas Tree.

Fort Foster (1776) on the east side of the Machias River saw action during the Revolutionary War when settlers and Indians fought side-by-side against the British. Admission: free.

Mill Memorial Park honors the logging industry.

North of Machias on Route 9 is Crawford, home of the Breakneck Mountain Bluegrass Festival. This decade-old, three-day, get-together in July features some of the finest Bluegrass music in the Northeast. It's all quite informal. You can take a break from the stage show and walk the grounds, listening to the musicians getting together for spontaneous sessions.

All cultures sprout creators. Place and time are meaningless. France, for example, may boast of its prehistoric cave painters, but Maine had scarcely less impressive petroglyph artists. These early inhabitants made rock carvings of everyday tribal life that go back a couple of thousand years, maybe much further. In East Machias, petroglyphs can be found at three different sites, and the best way to view them is to book passage on one of Captain Martha Jordan's boat tours out of East Machias. Capt. Jordan knows more about these works than just about anybody else. She worked on the collection of beautiful relief prints permanently on display at Washington Academy in East Machias. She also knows a great deal about the area's history and is sensitive to its flora and fauna. You'll need a reservation; call 207-259-3338.

On the western side of Little Machias Bay are the 26 towers of the U.S. Navy Communications Center, which maintains contact with naval operations worldwide. This is said to be the world's most powerful radio station.

From Cutler, you can catch a tour boat to Machias Seal Island, where you can see Atlantic puffins. Rates: $5 to $7.

Backpackers will be interested in the new Cutler Coast Reserve. Situated south of Holmes Cove, hikers along the are rewarded with spectacular views off 100-foot bedrock cliffs. The 2,174-acre parcel, which contains 4.5 miles of isolated coastline, is maintained by Maine's Bureau of Public Lands and eventually will include several remote campsites. Once completed, it will be Maine's longest coastal footpath.

The Little River Lodge is a bed and breakfast overlooking the picturesque harbor in Cutler, Maine. The Lodge features five guest rooms, three with harbor views, offering guests a choice of accommodations.

Back on Route One, watch for the Petite Retreat, a boat launch, and the Puffin Pines Gifts.


Route East 189 will take you down to Lubec (the country's easternmost town), once home to nearly two dozen sardine canneries. Just two remain: Peacock Canning and Lubec Packing Company. Heading down to Lubec, you pass the Wildlife Art Studio, the Cobscook Community Learning Center, Phinney’s Road House & Lounge. Entering Lubec, you'll pass Route 191 (the road to the Bold Coast Trails), Spruces Bar and Grill, Broomstick Creations, South Bay Campground, and the Eastland Motel. You'll go by Downeast Adventures, the Bold Coast Smokehouse, and Due East Real Estate. you'll go by the road to Quoddy Head State Park, Uncle Kippy’s Seafood Restaurant, Murphy’s Restaurant, the Quoddy Dolphin, the Bay View and Peacock House bed and breakfasts, and down to public boat launch, Annebelle’s, chocolate shop, and the gateway to Campobello.

Alan and Gretchen Mead have opened Cottage Garden to the public. Their primary mission, they say, is to educate people about gardening by showing them their phenomenal perennials. Situated four-and-a-half miles down the N. Lubec Road, the Meads also have a herb garden, a stream-side damp garden, and an alpine collection. You can get dried flower wreaths at the Herb Shop as well as unique decorated garden benches, bird houses, and framed bird and botanical prints. They're open 10 to 4 Wednesday thru Sunday and other times by chance or appointment. Admission is free.

Near Lubec is Quoddy Head State Park, adjacent to West Quoddy Head Light, Maine's famous red-and-white striped lighthouse The grounds are accessible from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. The state park offers scenic grandeur, hiking trails, and picnic sites.

The Roosevelt International Bridge connects Lubec and Campobello Island, where Franklin D. Roosevelt summered as a young man. The Roosevelt cottage, a museum, is open to the public from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. until mid-Oct. Admission is free. The Roosevelt-Campobello International Park, established in 1964, occupies 2,800 acres of the island and includes hiking trails, picnic areas, and numerous scenic vistas.

The grounds of East Quoddy Head Light at Head Harbor at the island's northern tip are accessible at low tide.

Twenty-five foot tides in the Bay of Fundy are among the world's highest and produce a spectacular rush of water well worth watching. This area might also be the world's foggiest.


Back on Route One,there is a boat launch and the entrance to Cobscook Bay State Park, the Moosehorn National Wildlife Refuge, a picnic area, the Cobscook Bay Café, the turnoff to Robinson’s Cottages, the Pembrook Rainbow Motel, Morgan’s Restaurant and Motel, the Crossroads Restaurant, and, in Perry, the Cobscook Bay Cottages, and an ice cream place.

Even at the peak of the season, Cobscook Bay State Park rarely fills. You have a good chance of getting a campsite even without a reservation. Numerous sites overlook the bay. Unlike many state parks, Cobscook offers hot showers. Call 207-725-4412.



EASTPORT

The nation's easternmost city, Eastport has seen some hard times since the collapse of its sardine-based economy, but may be bouncing back. The downtown area, once noted for its abandoned buildings, is coming alive with shops and galleries. Eastport also has a busy working waterfront and seaport. Of late, salmon farming has been among the enterprises providing the area an economic boost. The annual Salmon Festival, held the first Sunday after Labor Day, is a gala event.
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Three miles outside of Eastport is the Pasamaquoddy Indians' Pleasant Point Reservation. The Waponahki Museum has a fine display of Indian artifacts and books on the history of the Passamaquoddy people and their language. You can buy Indian baskets here. Each august, there is a celebration of Native American heritage.

The Old Sow off Eastport is the largest whirlpool in the Western Hemisphere. (It may even be the world's largest; depends on which Atlas you believe.) Caused by massive colliding tidal currents, the spectacle can be observed from the shore near Dog Island at the northern end of Water Street. It is at its best on windy days or when tides are especially high. If you're brave and want to see the thing up close, you can take the auto ferry to Deer Island. On some trips, the ferry passes right through it.

During the War of 1812, the British seized Eastport and held her until 1818. They took command of Fort Sullivan, the ruins of which stand on Battery Hill. You can visit what's left of the old powder house; nearby are barracks, which have been converted into a museum. A phantom soldier from the occupation is said to still stand guard here. Locals say he is often seen when the fog rolls in and the foghorn blows..

The Eastport Arts Center provides local artists, sculptors, and craftspeople display space. During the summer, classes are held. Call 853-4133.

The Eastport Gallery has moved to new quarters at 69 Water Street.

Stage East, an Eastport theater group, has been offering spirited performances at rock-bottom prices: $5 a head ($4 for students and senior citizens; $12 for a season pass into three performances.) Write Stage East, P.O. Box 127, Eastport, ME 04631.

The Raye family has been making mustard in Eastport since the turn of the century. It began by servicing the town's several sardine canneries. Today, J.W. Raye & Co. Inc., having survived the downfall of this industry, still does things the old way, grinding carefully selected mustard seeds and spices between huge granite stones, then aging them in an ancient method that "marries" the flavors and produces the distinctive aroma of fine mustard. You're welcome to tour the Mustard Mill Museum; when it is in operation a yellow flag is flying. The Pantry Store features Raye's products along with other natural foods products and crafts. Gift baskets are made to order. Call 1-800-853-1903

Up the street, half-a-buck will get you into the Eastport Aquarium. Upstairs is an interesting collection of books dealing with the oceanic environment compiled by the Quoddy Foundation.

A new state hiking trail, Shackford Head, is situated behind the Marine Trades Center.

The MOTEL EAST provides one of the region's most spectacular panoramas. From one of its balconies, you can look across Passamaquoddy Bay to Campobello and Grand Manan Islands. To the north lies St. Croix Bay and the coast of New Brunswick. Call 207-853-4747.



Back on Route One, watch for the small, red, granite stone marking the halfway point between the equator and the North Pole. It can be found at a roadside park a mile-and-a-half from Rte 190. In this stretch, you'll aslo find Wigwam moccasins, the New Friendly Restaurant, miniature golf, and the 45 Parallel Gift Shop.

Katie's On The Cove in Robbinston makes chocolates the old-fashioned way—by hand in small batches. The company, which specializes in Maine potato candy, has some well-loved recipes dating back more than a century. Katie's has been talked about positively in "Down East Magazine," "The National Enquirer," "National Examiner," "Woman's World," the "Bangor Daily News" and was featured on Maine Public Television’s "Made in Maine!" Her truffles and chocolates have gotten rave reviews from several best-selling travel guides, including "Yankee Magazine’s Travel Guide to New England 2000," "Off the Beaten Path" by Wayne Curtis, "Moon Handbooks-Maine Handbook," by Kathleen M. Brandes, and new in 2003, "An Explorer’s Guide to Maine," by Christina Tree. Call 207-545-8446 or order online at www.katiesonthecove.com.

Further on you'll find cottages, a gallery, a rest area, the Redclyfe Motel, and the Robbinston Historical Society.

St. Croix Island International Historic Site will celebrate its 400th anniversary in 2004. St. Croix Island was settled by the French nobleman Pierre Dugua, Sieur de Mons, in 1604. He brought 78 men with him, including Samuel Champlain, but the island proved an inhospitable winter site, and several of the men died. In 1605, Dugua moved his settlement to Port Royal in Nova Scotia. Today, there is no public access to St. Croix Island, but it may be viewed from the shore of Red Beach.

Keep on truckin' and you'll get to the Devil’s Head Conservation Area, Heslin’s, Calais Antiques, a picnic area, the Riverside Cottages, and the St. Croix Country Club.


Calais, Maine's busiest border city, shares an unusually close relationship with St. Stephen, its Canadian neighbor. Each helps to celebrate the other's holidays, each responds to the other's police and fire emergencies, and St. Stephen provides Calais drinking water. It's one of just two places in the world where potable water is imported from a foreign country. An annual week-long festival celebrates the spirit of friendliness here.


The CALAIS MOTOR INN has Washington County's only heated, indoor, Olympic-sized swimming pool.







The stately Brewer House B&B was once the northernmost stopover for the underground railroad.

Heding toward downtown Calais, yo'll see the International Motel, Hightower Steak House & Seafood, Karen’s Main Street Diner, the Calis Book Shop, Points East Real Estate, Maineline Studio (photography), the Dusty Rose Antiques, the Urban Moose, Uptown Antiques, a Chinese restaurant, The Maine Visitor Information Center and Downeast Heritage Museum, Mainemade Gifts, and the St. Croix Valley Antiques,

Marilyn Bernardini, owner of Bernardini's, an Italian restaurant on Main Street, was named 1999 Restaurateur of the Year by the Maine Restaurant Association.

The most direct way to get to Calais from Bangor is on Route 9, commonly called The Airline. This is not a road for the faint of heart. Sometimes it seems like people driving have reached a tacit agreement that all speed laws have been suspended. Pulp trucks rule here, and people in cars are advised to steer clear.


Questions or comments? Send them along to Captain D.

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