BANGOR HAS ADOPTED Paul Bunyan as its symbol. Standidng in front of the Bangor Auditorium is a 30-foot-high statue of the mythical lumberjack. We're among those who question this choice. Paul Bunyan relates to a by-gone era of seemingly unlimited resources. He is celebrated for prevailing over nature with brute force, clearing timber from Maine to Minnesota, laying waste to millions of trees. Never mentioned is the indescribably ugly scar his unabashed clear-cutting would have left upon the land.

Bangor could have adopted a more relevant symbol, Henry David Thoreau. The famed naturalist/philosopher visited Bangor in the 1860s on his way to Mt. Katahdin. Thoreau's love for the natural world and belief in frugality makes him an appropriate figure to revere.

Bangor can also lay claim to a modern-day icon of the literary world, Stephen King. Although the chamber of commerce guide is silent on the subject, Bangor's leading tourist attraction is the King residence on West Broadway. Here visitors can see King's famous wrought iron spider gate and perhaps catch a glimpse of the great man himself. King has sold more books than any other author in history, and while his critics often are less than adoring, King's popularity shows few signs of abating.

Bangor, which over a century ago was the world's busiest lumber shipping port, has many beautiful, historic structures, both commercial and residential.

The Bangor Historical Society (situated in the Thomas A. Hill House, 159 Union St., 942-5766) provides maps for self-guided walking tours thru s eight remaining historic districts.

Across the street from the historical society is the beautiful Isaac Farrar Mansion (947-2008), which is open to the public (admission $1). This fine old house (circa 1845) purportedly is haunted by the ghost of a distraught governess. It retains many of its original features, such as carved mahogany paneling, curved and slotted bookcase doors, marble fireplaces, and stained glass windows.

St. Johns Catholic Church has marvelous, recently-restored European stained-glass windows.

Bangor boasts the nation's oldest symphony orchestra and the state's only year round repertory theater group.

Bangor's whereabouts was determined by the depth of the Penobscot River. For the pioneers, his was as far into the Maine woods as you could bring a large sailing vessel. The city's location is still of commercial importance. It is on the Great Circle route, making Bangor International Airport 500 miles closer to Europe than any other on the U.S. east coast.

Like many American cities, Bangor has had to struggle to keep a viable downtown following the arrival of an outlying mall. So far, Bangor has been reasonably successful. Shopping downtown here can be fun. Shops, most of which are owner-operated, are highly individualistic. Many times lower prices compensate for exposure to the elements and somewhat less convenient parking.

Bringing people to downtown is the Childrenâs Museum. The Maine Discovery Museum features exhibits on science, music, art, physics, literature, and more. General admission is 5.50.

The Twin City Motor Inn in Brewer has luxury rooms with whirlpool spa and king-size heated waterbeds. 1-800-829-TWIN. At the Hampton Inn, if you aren't completely satisfied, you don't have to pay. 1-800-HAMPTON. At Comfort Inns, kids stay free. The New Stable Inn in Brewer will set you up with a qualified babysitter. Call 207-989-9809. The Super 8 Motel on the Odlin Road offers Senior, AAA, and AARP discounts. 207-945-5681. The Park Rest Motel in Hampden is a bit off the beaten track, but has unusually attractive rates. 207-862-5500. In 1999, The Phenix Inn at West Market Square was voted Greater Bangor's Best Bed & Breakfast. The Ramada Inn has 115 newly renovated, oversized guest rooms and is home to Barnaby’s, one of Bangor’s best restaurants.

The Peace & Justice Center of Eastern Maine is engaged in a number of social causes--everything from the Maine state budget crisis and the desecration of the Maine woods to religious conflict in India and the future of Haiti. There is usually something special happening at the center, which is situated at 128 Main St., Bangor. If you lean toward progressiveness, you might want to stop in and meet the good folks here. Call 207-942-9343.

In Downtown Bangor, international cuisine is provided by Pakistani, Indian, and Chinese restaurants. Exotic spices and simple fare are offered by owner Farzana Khan at Bahaar Pakistani Restaurant. Biryani, massala, palak paneer, curries, traditional breads, mangoe shakes are just a few of the items available. Get authentic Indian cuisine at Taste of India. New Moon Café at 49 Park Street offers live music every night with one of the most interesting and eclectic menu selections in Bangor. Try their Almond Crusted Chicken for a taste delight out of this world. Thistle's Restaurant offers gourmet dining at attractive prices; a standout here is the lovely dessert tray. We've never had better sub sandwiches than the ones they fix at Veazie Variety Shop. Watching your wasteline? Be good to it at TCBY Treats, the yogurt place near the Phenix Inn. Bagel Central on Central Street is a real kosher bakery offering terrific bagels, pastries, vegetarian specials and specialty gourmet recipes.

Downtown, Alcott Antiques carries country furniture, primitives, and folk art. The Overlook Group Shop on the second floor also carries antiques and collectibles. Nearby, the Central Trading Post, which specializes in police goods, buys and sells stuff at bargain prices.

If you're a tad on the hefty side (or know somebody who is), check out the garb at Niman's. They specialize in clothes for big and tall men. Call 1-800-286-4980.

The Charles Inn, downtown Bangor's only hotel, is an older stylish and elegant establishment with all the amenities travelers are looking for.  It's convenient to restaurants, pubs, parks, and waterfront strolls.  Enjoy a daily deluxe continental breakfast.  In the lobby there is a nice art gallery and free Internet. Located at 20 Broad St. Call 207-992-2820.

Find your wine.  State Street Wine Cellar, boasts Bangor’s most extensive wine selection.  Well-organized and neat as a pin, truly a pleasurable experience. Also on hand are gourmet foods and a well-stocked deli case with cheese and pate and more.Stop by, say hi to Shane, and let him know you saw his ad in Captain D. Located at 195 State St. across from Miller drug. 207-262-9500

Keep the kids happy by picking up some books at The Briar Patch on Central Street. Included here is a large selection by Maine authors and illustrators.

If your feet hurt, drop into The Walk Shop at 89 Main St. Bob and Louise Cust carry a wide selection of Birkenstock sandals and other therapeutic footwear.

Cornerstone Framing & Fine Art on Main Street will provide a frame for just about anything. On display also is a variety of prints and original art. River City Collection on Columbia Street carries Maine-related and contemporary prints among its antiques and collectibles. Out at the Airport Mall, the folks at Two Witches Gift Shop can custom letterize just about anything.

Check out the floral displays at Lougee & Frederick's on State Street in Bangor. These guys have won numerous awards.

Check out the floral displays Bangor Floral on Center Street. These folks will wire your selections all over the world.

Frati Jewelry, a high-quality second-hand store, specializes in cameras and consumer electronics. There's also plenty of jewelry on hand, all discounted 50 percent. Stephen King has said he gets most of his ideas here. (King's house on Outer Broadway, with its famous spider gate, attracts plenty of gawkers.)

What's nice about the Grasshopper Shop is that there's something for everybody, says co-owner Ken Schweikert. "We try to find things that are fun, affordable, and otherwise unavailable Downeast. We're getting new and different things all of the time.

Bangor city fathers haven't chosen to name property after Stephen King. There is no Stephen King boulevard or King Memorial Park. Local entrepreneurs don't seem inclined to cash in on King's notoriety, either. There is no Overlook Hotel or Needful Things curio shop. Maybe business people shy away from associating themselves with horror. What's more likely, however, is that they are just acting like Mainers, people very much inclined to tend to their own business, not that of others. King likes living in Bangor in part because people don't treat him like he's anything special. He can grab breakfast at the local coffee shop without there being any more fuss than somebody saying "Mornin', Steve."
Evidently, King has asked the Chamber of Commerce not to direct visitors to his house. It is, after all, a private residence, and King can hardly be expected to extend a personal welcome to every curious person who comes along. Still, King hasn't asked us to keep his whereabouts a secret. We couldn't anyway. Just about everybody in town knows that King lives on West Broadway in an early lumber baron's old house. We are sure that the readers of our book are highly literate types who want nothing more than to photograph King's house and gate.
Still, King has attracted more than his share of whackos. One guy who shows up in town from time has covered his van with documentation that King murdered John Lennon. Another guy appeared in King's kitchen and told Tabitha he was taking her hostage. "The hell you are," she replied before retreating to a neighbor's house from which she called the police. Another time, a mysterious package apeared outside King's gate. The police, suspecting it was a bomb, blew it to bits. It turned out to be a copy of "It" that a fan had left in hopes of having it autographed.
Stephen King is Downeast Maine's only REALLY FAMOUS PERSON. Oh, sure, we have Hannibal Hamlin, Lincoln's first vice president, who had ties with Hampden, and Dorothea Dix, who did everything she could to help the mentally ill. And, of course, some famous rich people like the Vanderbilts and Rockefellers spent time on Mount Desert Island, but they weren't really from there.

King, on the other hand, is ours. He graduated from the University of Maine at Orono and was living in a trailer in Hermon and working at a Bangor laundry when the vivid shower scene in Carrie caught the attention of the folks at Viking.
 
Bangor has other outstanding used book shops. Pro Libris, with more than 20,000 current and out-of-print books in stock, is strong in issue-oriented materials. Lippincott Books has besides many ordinary used books a large stock of rare and valuable volumes. Book Marc's on Harlow St. has both new and pre-read books, and has recently added a cafe where you can borrow a book while you sip your coffee and eat your bagel.

Enlightenment is where you find it, of course, and in Bangor it's found at a most unlikely location - the drab and dismal Bomarc Industrial Park, home of Silo Seven, a very unusual bookstore. Stocked here are books concerning Eastern teachings, death & reincarnation, new physics, psychic development, inspirational natural magick, all this kind of stuff. If you are intrigued by the unusual, this may be your kind of bookstore.
 
Diana Cyr is soft-spoken and chooses words carefully, so when she says that Sanborn's has the finest caramel on the planet, you tend to try some and probably come back for seconds. Our verdict? We won't argue with Diana; we haven't had better caramel anywhere. Sanborn's Candies is a proud family affair; the Sanborns have been making chocolates in New Hampshire for a good long time. Diana's two-year-old shop is the first Maine branch. Situated off Stillwater Avenue near Service Merchandise, she is keeping alive this venerable company's fine reputation. Call 207-990-0778.

If you think that health food stores are too pricey, you'll be pleasantly surprised at many of the prices at the Natural Living Centers in Bangor and Brewer. There is, for example, a huge selection of herbs and spices at prices up to 80 percent lower than those of supermarkets. "We try to buy smart and pass the savings on to our customers," says co-owner Barbara Geiger. She says that people come from as far away as Portland to shop for health foods. Also on hand are a fine Oriental food selection, a terrific book section, and, in Brewer, a huge variety of imported beers and home-brew equipment. NLC stocks at least a dozen varieties of rice, and for a long time now, raisins have been 89 cents a pound. Nationwide mail order 1-800-933-4229.

N.H. Bragg & Sons, an industrial supply company, keeps a very low profile in the Bangor Industrial Park, but, to those in the know, it makes available a large, discount hardware and automotive supply outlet. Prices here are just a bit above wholesale.

A well-kept secret in Bangor is the availability of smoked hams prepared by W.A. Bean and Sons at their retail store in the Bomarc Industrial Park. Bean's is Maine's oldest independent meat packer. Founded in 1860, Bean's has been run by the same family for five generations. The company is known for its spiral-cut, honey-glazed hams, sold across the country by mail order. Each ham is slowly sugar-cured and smoked the old-fashioned way. At their retail store, they also prepare special meat packages at considerable savings. They will pack meats for shipping. Tours of the plant can be arranged. Call 1-800-649-1958;.

In Downeast Maine, Marlene's is the place to come for uniforms of all descriptions. Nearby is Ben Sklar's, which specializes in good deals on clothing for big and tall men.

If it's tires you need, Tom Bennett of Bennett Tire on the Bangor's Perry Road won't, well, take you for a ride. Also, if you find yourself stranded, he has a free shuttle and delivery service. Dean Mooers of Mooers' Tire on Wilson St. in Brewer insists that his are the lowest area prices on both used tires and retreads.

If you take Exit 44 off I-95, you'll come to Dysart's Restaurant, an old-fashioned truck stop that's become legendary. It's open 24 hours, and you'll get trucker-size portions whether you order the Yankee pot roast or Daisy's renowned bread pudding. There's no glitz here, but plenty of honest-to-gosh good value. This is a family business that is fun to visit because everybody obviously genuinely likes everybody else. In his guide to Maine, Charles Calhoun called Dysart's "a beacon in the darkness on I-95..."

The Cole Land Transportation Museum is notable for its great variety. On display are over 150 vehicles ranging from an antique baby carriage to a locomotive and railroad station, horse-drawn logging sleds and logging trucks, wagons and sleighs, vintage cars and trucks, snowplows and fire trucks. Adults $5, children age 19 and under free, seniors over 62 $3, AAA discount $4. (You find the place by taking Exit 45B off I-95, turning left at the first light, then left on Perry Road.)

Harness racing in Bangor goes back to pre-Civil War times. Bass Park, which has had a track for trotters for over a century, has been the site of several racing world records. No fewer than fifteen immortals of harness racing's Hall of Fame have competed here. During July, racing programs are held at 7 p.m. Wednesday, Fridays and Saturdays and Sundays at 1:30 p.m. Call 207-947-6744.

The Penobscot Paddle and Chowder Society is a nonprofit organization of people whose common interest is canoeing, kayaking, and other related outdoor activities. Members are found throughout New England. Out-of-state visitors can get in on the society's trips. Call Kate Judy at 207-843-7983.

Staples on Union Street in Bangor offers a terrific assortment of business products, all at discount prices. It's a club, with members getting many special prices, but a club that anybody can join.

The Paul Bunyan Statue on Main Street in Bangor stands 31 feet tall, weighs two-and-a-half tons, and embodies the folklore surrounding Maine's historic lumbering industry.

"Why do people even bother to shop in Freeport?' asks Mickey Marden. "They don't know bargains until they shop at Marden's." Represented Downeast by stores in Bangor and Brewer, Marden's, which at one time or another has handled just about every product imaginable, gets most of its merchandise from insurance losses and natural disasters. By buying large lots, it endeavors to sell everything for 50 percent off regular retail. People have responded; annual gross sales approach $50 million. Some of the merchandise looks a little beat, but Marden's guarantees everything it sells. Unhappy customers--there aren't too many--have no problems getting refunds. Selections change constantly. "People never know what they're going to find," says Marden. "That's what bring them back."

Two bakeries--Country Kitchen and Nissen-- have thrift stores in the Bangor/Brewer area. (The Country Kitchen store is at 494 Broadway in Bangor; the Nissen is at 34 Abbott in Brewer.) Both stores offer good prices on slightly dated things that didn't sell in regular retail outlets.

At the Double Dip on the Griffin Road, hotdogs are two for $1.19 and cones are under a buck. This place is slightly off the beaten track and uses low prices to entice business.

Bangor has non-profit thrift shops run by both the Salvation Army and Goodwill Industries. The Attic is a volunteer-run thrift store whose proceeds benefit St. John's School. Resale Shops in the area include Page Two Resale Shop, Victoria's Closet, Just Kid's Stuff, Irresistibles, Children's Choice, the Hampden Flea Market, Ware Me Out Resale Shop, Sylvia's Resale Shop, and LuRee's Thrift Shop




GREATER BANGOR

If you're into recycling, you'll want to salute the guys at J&J Auto Salvage on the Brewer Lake Road in Orrington. Among other things, they heat the place with used transmission oil. They save just about everything, including freon from auto air conditioners. All of which means you can save a bundle on parts they've rescued from otherwise unwanted autos. There's a mechanic on duty; he'll install anything you buy there. It's pretty much risk free; there's a 30-day guarantee on all parts and labor. Call 207-825-3061.

Linda Mitchell-Storer, who calls her business Vintage Finery, has been collecting distinctive wearing apparel since she was a teenager; over the years, she has amassed an amazing assortment of both vintage and antique clothing. (Antique clothing, she says, is more than a century old; some of her inventory goes back to the 17th century.) On hand are prom dresses, tuxedos, wedding gowns, and a vast assortment of costumes for every occasion. Besides clothing, Linda has a dizzying collection of accessories--over 600 hats, gloves, shoes, jewelry, bags, and coats, including fancy furs. She is developing a shop; and, perhaps eventually, a museum in Orrington (which you get to by taking Rte. 15 south out of Brewer). In addition to the fancy stuff, Linda has more ordinary thrift shop-type clothing on hand for sale inexpensively. Vintage Finery is open noon to 4 p.,m. Monday thru Thursday or by appointment. Call 825-4142.

Head east on Rte. 9 from Brewer an you'll come to Lakeview Auction. Here auctioneer Mike Lufkin conducts popular Thursday evening sales that may include any merchandise imaginable Lufkin specializes in buying out the total contents of homes and businesses and putting the useful stuff up for sale.

Large portions are what make the Eagles' Nest Restaurant in Eddington noteworthy. The burger we had there reminded us of a small meatloaf. The restaurant, situated on Route 9, also keeps prices modest.

Winterport, situated 12 miles south of Bangor on Rte 1A, was important a century ago as the last anchorage on the Penobscot River that always remained ice-free. The Winterport Historic District, a cohesive, homogeneous grouping of late 18th, 19th and early 20th century buildings is in the National Register of Historic Places.
 

HOLDEN

From the I-395 interchange, it is a 23-mile drive to downtown Ellsworth. Taking it, you'll pass thru a bit of Brewer, Holden, and Lucerne-in-Maine, which is a notably scenic area sometimes referred to as "Little Switzerland." Irving Mainway in Brewer is a 24-hour service station. You can get diesel here, as you can at Miller's and the Holden Variety Store. There are public restrooms at Irving and at the B & G Variety Store in Holden. There is an ATM at Casco Northern Bank in Holden.

If you stay at the Woodland Terrace Motel, you can play its 9-hole golf course for free. The course is short, but hilly and really quite beautiful. You might choose to just take a walk back there, if you're afraid that golf might ruin what otherwise would be a pleasurable experience. There are good hiking trails. Call 207-989-3750.

For state-of-the-art auto repair and auto detailing, check out COY'S TOWING & AUTO CARE at 231 Main Road in Holden. Owner Roscoe Nobel provides 24 hour towing and roadside assistance and accepts all major auto clubs and credit cards Call 207/989-1331.

Ralph McLeod of Foto-Fixer in Holden says he is the only real camera repairman this side of Boston. He can fix just about any camera, although he won't do warranty work. His $25-an-hour fee sure beats the $65 most out-of-staters charge, and if your camera is unrepairable, he won't slap you with one of those aggravating bench fees. If you're a visitor leaving soon, he'll try to hurry your job through without charging extra.

For a real uplifting experience, check out a hot air balloon ride. Damn Yankee Balloons Inc. offers them from East Holden. Call 207-843-7249.

Jay Osler, the man behind the Maine Woods Smoke Co. in Dedham, says his is "the best smoked salmon in the world." He's been at it for almost a decade, and has developed a brine that unlike most is neither too salty nor too smokey. Although he gets orders from all over the country, he still caters to a loyal band of locals. To find him, go 1.6 miles north of the Lucerne Inn and take a left on Fire Road 3, an inconspicuous turn-off from Route 1A.

The Lucerne Inn is haunted. There is a long history of things going bump in the night, lights mysteriously turning on and off, and objects spontaneously setting sail. It seems that Sam, the caretaker of the place when it was a stagecoach stop, caught his wife extending excessive hospitality to a guest in room 8. Enraged, he murdered the offending couple before offing himself. Word has it he's still mad, and cursing the place (although he never bothers the guests). Call 207-843-5123.

After just a few years of renewed operations, the Lucerne Hills Golf Club boasts some of the finest greens found anywhere. Host Roger Tracy imported bent Province grass from Rhode Island, and it has established itself beautifully. This hilly and challenging Donald Ross course is a truly fine 9-hole test of any player's abilities. The $7 green fees are the lowest for any standard course in the Downeast region. Call 207-843-6282.

If you’re at all interested in the history of popular technology, you’ll want to visit The Telephone Museum. Situated in a big graybarn on the Winkumpaugh Road, the museum traces the history of the telephone network from Alexander Graham Bell’s patent in 1876 through the era of switchboard operators and early dial telephones to the more complex electro-mechanical switching systems that preceded today’s digital technology. Exhibits are hands-on—everybody (including kids) are encouraged to operate the old equipment. The people operating the museum have had life-long associations with telephone companies, and are crammed with fascinating information (like how Bell may not really be the telephone’s inventor!). The museum, open July, August, and September, charges admission: $4 for adults, $2 for children.

There is a public beach and snack bar at Green Lake.

If you're fascinated by unusual automobiles, check out Moto-Car. Terrence Pinkham keeps on hand 40 or 50 special interest cars, ranging form antiques to new limited-production models.